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North Maroon Peak
Elevation: 14,014 feet
Climbed: Sep 27, 2008; Aug 16, 2009
Mountain Range: Elk Range
Colorado Rank:
Class Rating: 4
Latitude: 39.075800
Longitude: -106.987000

Trip Report

Aug 16, 2009
This climb became a waiting game with the weather. I was rained out for two straight days before getting a clear, sunny day for the summit attempt.

I was awake at 3:50 AM and hiking by 4:30 AM. I summited just after 9:30 AM. Although scattered clouds were already forming, they never became threatening.

I climbed the Class 4 chimney, which is the crux of the route, on the ascent. I descended the exposed Class 3 alternative, which was more exposed than I was expecting. I took off my pack for the initial, tricky descending move, then retrieved the pack and lowered it as far as I could by extending one of the trekking poles I had attached to the pack. I then put on the pack as I downclimbed past it.

This is definitely a climber's route, with plenty of moves required high on the mountain.

Sep 27, 2008
I attempted to summit North Maroon Peak on September 27, 2008, but turned around on the northeast ridge at 13,600 feet. The crux of the route is a Class 4 chimney on the northeast ridge, but all of the holds had snow and/or ice on top of them. The Class 3 alternative was more exposed and snowy. I poked around looking for good ice axe placement, but it felt sketchy to me. I just didn't trust it enough, since I couldn't find a handhold that felt secure.

It looks like I'll be revisiting North Maroon Peak next year.

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